Cebuano Cuisine: Eat it while it’s Haute!

A fine dining restaurant attracts both the monied and laidback crowd . Jareliese Mauro surrenders to the call of the stomach and exposes the mystery.

Its dominion in the food business may be untenable, but its distinction is unperturbed. Accounts obtained from Chinese Imperial Courts archives name the Philippine archipelago as “Ma-yi.” Just like its moniker, dishes served in Ma-yi, CitySports Club Cebu, has a certain flair to it that one almost taste the history in the cooking.

By tradition, Philippines has been a culture of comfort food consumption. From simple victuals created by kitchen musings to the fanciful confections of the seasoned chef, Pinoys crave that satisfying sensation in the belly which results to a burp-whether muted or not.

The matte cream linen threaded in silky golden lines dress up the restaurant's furniture, giving off that elite yet snug appeal. Credits go to lead architect RR Payumo and Associates, and Barry Design and Associates for the interior design. Since it started as a 50-seater seven years ago, it was reduced to 30 so a diner wouldn’t feel that Ma-yi is a “typical commuter’s restaurant.” Its low-key lighting, sufficient breathing space between tables, and exquisite interiors can make one feel like he or she is sitting in the Queen’s lounge that one can almost hear the classical music from a stringed quartet and the clinking of cups of British royals in their lazy afternoon teas. But F and B manager, Victor Marc Montesa, describes their service as silver salver imposing a bistro atmosphere. Now, Cebuanos can have a slice of royalty, too.

Properly-trained waiters, who serve from the left and clear dishes from the right, can usher in a variety of 50 dishes daily from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.. Theme executive meals, set menu, salad, main course, and desserts differ each month. Similar to our neighboring Southeast Asian countries, it is projected that ample time is devoted to careful preparation. The daily feast prepared by Brian Lance Bersonda (sous chef), Danilo Gonzalez (executive chef), and Rowena Galvez (pastry chef) can rival with popular foreign cuisines that a country can no longer have an exclusive claim to fame of satisfying the palate. Filipino dishes can also leave a gratifying sensation in the world’s pinkie buds.

Take for example the Ma-yi’s Mangga-nificent Bangus (bangus with mango sauce), seared spice salmon (an 'original' creation), and servings of lamb and steaks (medallions and pan-roasted lambchops). These orders can impress even the most well-traveled customers. “Asian food has more umami (considered to be a fifth basic taste along with sweet, sour, salty, and bitter) compared to Western food,” divulges Ma-yi Sous chef, Brian Lance Bersonda, a graduate of International Culinary Arts Academy who’s been cooking since he was 6 years old. The 2006 Young Chefs Competition champion explicates further that it’s important for him to produce a meal by meticulously enhancing its balance of ingredients, color, aroma, and flavor profile.

Some of Ma-yi's famous concoctions include Lombata di Maiale (breaded prok with Italian ham and cheese) and Pesce alla Mugnaia con Putanesca (fish muniere with spaghetti putanesca) for the Italian Flair theme; PinakaGUAVA na Hipon (guava glazed Shrimps, Mango Kaffir, Salad, and Kuih Pie Tee) for the Fruity Executive Lunch; Miso crusted Dory with spicy shiitake fettuccini, coffee glazed spareribs, and okra sambal for Asian Fusion thematic; New Orleans Fish Creole (cream of garlic soup, mahi-mahi fillets in Creole spices, Creole vegetables) for the Southern comfort theme and Bipstik ni Lola (pan-fried tenderloins braised in a pepper-soy gravy, garlic rice, friend shallots, poaced green beans.) for Pilipino Specials.


A Filipino’s taste for sweet and other exciting flavors echoes a tradition all throughout history. Ma-yi is another guaranteed hotspot for Filipino foodie buffs.

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